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Step 1
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Ok. First step is to make the frame seen in the image in the left. Unfortunately at this point I didn't take shots of the making of this since I had already had made it a while ago. Effectively it is made by cutting two pieces of the 1/2"x1" board 6 1/2" long. Then I cut a piece at least 7" long and (in my case) nailed with 1" trim nails the 6 1/2" pieces about 7" apart so as to make a U shape. Then I cut a 10" piece of the same wood and sawed out two 3/8" (thickness of wood) slots roughly 7" apart to fit the top of the U. I carved the slots carefully so the two pieces would fit snugly in the notches to make the removable frame. Once you have materials the first step is to lay down the plastic sheet (mine is 2x3'). |
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Step 2
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Once you have your frame. Your ready to start making the clay chambers on the glass. In my project I had a particular species in mind that is quite small - 1/4" or less for workers. Queens less than 3/8". I also wanted to use roughly circular chambers to hopefully improve focus on indycam when up very close (edges are out of focus because of different distance from lense when flat). So I chose to use a round measuring spoon, some plastic (to make removal of clay from spoon easier), and the knife to cut the top of the clay off. Then these pieces are arranged on the glass in whatever pattern you wish to have for the chambers in your plaster/gypsum mold after it hardens. Remember the chambers the ants will live in will be created by the clay you are now putting on the glass. |
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Steps 3-4
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Now that you have all of your chambers layed out you are ready to add the connecting passage ways. I typically do this with little bits of clay shaped or pressed into place. At this point you have to add the pieces which will make the exit holes in the colony. I prefer to use two of them so I can daisy chain multiple terrariums if the colony gets very large. To do this I cut two roughly 3/4" pieces of the 3/8" tubing and block up one hole with clay, then at the other hole I block up the hole and leave enough clay to make an intrance. I add these pieces to the matrix of chambers and passages usually with one on each side - in this case I chose to have them both on same side. Make sure these tubes are set up to come very close if not touch the frame so that when the plaster/gypsum is poured the locations of those tubes can be easily found. NOTE: Be sure to align one side of the glass against the edge of the wood which later on will make it possible for you to slide the cover on and off easily vs. having it buried in plaster/gypsum. |
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Step 5
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At this point you are ready to mix up the plaster. For my mix I used 1/2 teaspoon of brown rit dye to 1 cup water and held two cups of clear water in a glass in case the mixture wasn't liquidy enough. In this step the idea (which is tricky I might add - takes some trial an error to get the water/dye/plaster mixture right to give the right final cast color. Generally for the darker dyes I found this ratio to work fine. Initially I would use a much darker dye/water solution and would dilute color with water until I got the plaster consistency right. Also note be sure to mix roughly 1:1 plaster to water mix to give yourself time to pour. In my first attempts I tried to use to little water and the plaster hardened in 1-2 minutes vs. 15 or more when properly hydrated. |
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Step 6
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When you are ready mix up the plaster - making sure to do this rather quickly and not being afraid to have the mix somewhat runny. In this case mine was a bit thick so I had to work fast. The reason you want the mix runny is so it will easily fill all the space and leave no large bubbles anywhere. Then I use a straight edge to level off the mix so the bottom will be flat when the plaster hardens. At this point while the mold is hardening clean your containers etc. It is much easier before the plaster fully sets to clean than after in some cases.. Let your mold set for at least 10-15 minutes before proceeding. But many of these next steps are better done before the mold completely hardens and dries. |
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Step 7
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After it is clear the plaster has hardened (10-30 minutes is sufficient in most cases, unless the plaseter was very runny) you should be able to easily flip the cast over to get some indication as to how it came out. At this point it should be relatively easy to crack off the excess plaster, etc. Then you can begin to clean the glass. |
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Step 8
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At this point if the cast seems relative hardened one should be able to remove the frame pieces. First start with the piece that makes the top of the U. Then carefully crack off the pieces of wood that make up the sides of the U. Then finally the lower piece of the U. Notice how the glass is contained on only 3 sides of the mold and is free on the 4th. This is important if you plan on sliding the glass on and off. Even if there is a slight edge it is possible with a file or knife to cut away the excess to make room for the glass to slide in and out. |
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Step 9
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Well congratulations you have sucessfully created the mold and extracted it from the frame. Now to continue with the extraction and seperation process. Take note of the two holes in the mold. These are precisely where those small preparation tubes were placed previously to accomodate the entrance/exit tubes. |
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Step 10
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Next take your knife and carefully cut away the excess plaster between the edge of the glass and the plaster holding it place in the Terrarium. Be careful not to cut too deeply but just deep enough to allow the glass to seperate from the mold when one prys the glass apart from the plaster mold. Be careful not to gouge the plaster too deeply nor to break any critical parts of the plaster mold itself. Also pay attention to which orientation and side the glass was located in the mold when lifting the glass off. (a marker can help) |
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Step 11
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Now having the glass removed and direction and side marked of origional orientation. Now carefully remove the clay which will expose the matrix of chambers. |
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Step 12
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Now using the blade of the knife cut the holes to the size of the 3/8" tube and gently pry both the tubes up and out of the mold (save these for later if you choose to make other molds with 3/8" tubes. |
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Step 13
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Using the blade of the knife remove any overhanging edges of plater in the matrix of chambers. You may also do whatever carving you wish at this point being careful not to expose holes or at worst cracking the mold in any way. I consider this a final cleaning up of the mold itself before putting it into use. |
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Step 14
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Now clean off both sides of the glass using tissue. The alcohol is used to clean the side of the glass that had the oil based clay attached to the glass. The goal is to get the glass extremely clean at least on the side which held the clay since once the ants are living in there it will be difficult to clean unless they are moved into another Terrarium. |
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Step 15
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When you have the glass cleaned you need to prepare the plaster mold a bit by shaving plaster off where the glass is framed by the plaster until the glass slides easily in and out. This is up to you. I personally don't utilize this feature and find having the glass tightly framed vs. slidable preferred for many reasons. Once this is accomplished refit glass to Plaster mold and then put one section of the tube in one of the holes. Until I am ready in the other I exit hole I put a short tube tightly stopped up with tissue paper to a depth of at least 1/2 inch. |
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Step 16
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Insert long 3/8" tube in one of the holes. Then until I am ready in the other exit hole I put a short tube tightly stopped up with tissue paper to a depth of at least 1/2 inch. |
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Step 17
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Congratulations you have finished your Ant Terrarium. To make versions larger in size or depth simply scale the ingredients and materials appropriately. For ants that are 3/8" of an inch in size I encourage the use of 1/2" or larger tubing to allow them to easily bring large dead insects etc into the colony. I also encourage the size of chambers in the plaster Terrarium or Formicarium to be no thicker than 2x queen height, no wider than 10 worhers width and longer than 5 worker lengths roughly. When chambers are too large the ants seem to avoid them. When too small they find it difficult to move between them. |
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| Also if you wish to purchase a Terrarium premade don't hesitate to e-mail me. The cost will be approximately $0.20/inch**2 + shipping. The fine print The really fine print Disclaimer: All statements may be proceeded with IMHO since they are all simply observations and are stated in that context only. As such fitness for any particular use or outcome are solely the responsibility of the client and as such all warranties, liabilities, possible damages resulting from the use of the information provided by ChannelU.com are to be born by the client and not the provider.. Your on your own kid ChannelU™ is a trademark of Turbo Software and it's content is under copyright© protections and may be reproduced only with written consent from Turbo Software |
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